Machine for forming seams



May 9, 1939-V J. P. wEls MACHINE FOR FORMING sEAMs j Filed Nov. lO, 19546 Sheetg-Sheet l May 9, 1939- J. P. was 2,157,368

MACHINE FOR FORMING SEAMS.

Filed Nov. l0, 1934 6 Sheets-Sheet 2 164 f6.6' Flg ATTORNEY May 9,1.939. J. P. was 2,157,368

MACHINE FOR FORMING SEAMS Filed Nov. 10, 1 934 e shew'gs-smaet` 3 May 9,l 1939.

J. P. WEIS MACHINE FOR FORMING SEAMS Filed Nov. 10, 1954 6 Shets-Sheet 4INVENTOR JOHN ,Q WIS/ 5. WLan-.SW

i Y g May 9,1939. n .1. P. was 2,157,368

` MACHINE FOR FORMING SEMS Filed Nov. lO, 1934 l6 Sheets-Sheet 5 ve f2s;6 $6 T Y fzs ff f Q /yff INVENTOR 4JOHN P. W15/5f BY Wuxi??? May9, 1939.J. P. wE'l's MACHINE FOR FORMING SEAMS e sheets-sheet e Filed Nov, 10,1934 INVENTOR w QMilf/54 Patented May 9, 1939 UNITED STATES MACHINE FORFORMING SEAMS John P. Weis, Nyack, N. Y., assignor 'to Willcox & GibbsSewing Machine Company, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New YorkApplication November 10, 1934, Serial No. '152,457 In Canada September28, 1934 6 Claims.

This invention relates to improved methods and apparatus to form seams,for various articles of manufacture .such as shoes, sporting goods,articles made from leather, canvas, and other materials, and alsowearing apparel requiring strong, flat, seams, and especially for thetaped seams of shoe uppers or quarters.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a seam formingmachine adapted to form a wide variety of novel, strong, useful, andornamental seams; and particularly to form a seam with tapes sewed toboth sidesv of the seam, viz. to both the inside and outside of theseam.

A further object of the present invention is to provide improved methodsof forming scams.

My United States Patents Nos. 1,809,460; 1,809,461; 1,809,462; 1,975,813and other patents or applications disclose a novel method and severalforms of apparatus for joining superposed plies with a seam and in thesame machine applying and stitching a plain tape to only one side of theseam. In my U. S. application Serial No.

'734,084 filed July 7, 1934, there is disclosed a` novel method andapparatus for opening the plies and applying an adhesive tape to eitherone or to both sides of the seam.

It is an object of the present invention to provide an improvedmechanism for applying either plain or adhesive tape or both lplain andadhesive tape to one or to both sides oi.' a seam.

Features resulting from the attainment of this object include a noveltape supply and guide capable of being located in predeterminedpositions longitudinally relative to the work and appara-k tus, and bothabove and below the work. This feature is further enhanced by providinga guide which is in the form of `a\ single channel from a remote tape-`supply to a place close to the point of applying the tape, entirelyopen on one or two sidesin order to facilitate directing, starting, andloading the tape, yet having the characteristic of positivelycontrolling the placement of the tape relative to the seam or the like.

Itis a further and particular object of the present invention to providean apparatus capable oi' joining superposed plies with a seam, applyingeither one or tw'o plain or adhesive tapes to the seam, and in the samegeneral machine stitching the tape or tapes to the main ply for addedstrength, or for ornamental eil'ects as by the use of coloredthreads,`or for both strengthening and ornamental effects.

Features in connection with this object include the provision of a.highly eiiicient tandem arrangement of a sewing mechanism for forming amain seam, a taping mechanism and a secondv sewing mechanism forsubsequently stitching the tape or tapes all driven coordinately, andwith novel work guides and controls between the various mechanisms.

Another object of the present invention is to provide improved apparatusto join plies with a 'curved seam and to apply tapes to the curved seam.

A feature in connection with this object in- 10 cludes the provision ofa curved section of predetermined form directly on a work supportadjacent the original seam forming stitching instrumentalities togetherwith a cooperating plate adapted to force the stitched work intoengagement with the curve section and thereby consistently controllingthe shape of the work.

Another very important object of the present invention is to provide aunitary apparatus capable oi joining plies with a seam wherein themachine may be quickly conditioned for the formation of various typesand sizes ofseams and wherein the apparatus may be used either to applya tape adhesively or by stitching or both adhesively and by stitching,thereby eecting a considerable economy in the original investment forequipment and savingin the amount of iloor space required for machinery.

One of the features in connectionA with this last named object includesinterchangeable guides 80 which may be simply hooked into place andwhich are always sure to be centralized since the side walls thereof arelocated by the side walls of the central pressing roller or pressingmember.

Other features include the' provision of novel :i5A

guides and work supports which may be used substantially without changefor applying an adliesive tape to one or to both sides of the workeither adhesively, by stitching, or both adhesively and by stitching.

A further object is to provide improved controls for variouslyinterrupting and controlling the various elements of the machine andthereby insuring a more satisfactory nal product.

Features in connection with this object inc1ude 45' ing and liftingmechanism. Fig. 3 is a side view similar to Fig. 1, on a, smaller scale,but also shows the main driving mechanism. Fig. 4 is a view similar toFig. 3 but of the opposite side of the machine. Fig. 5 is a top View ofthe machine shown in Figs. 3 and 4. Fig. 6 is a sectional view of themain driving mechanism controls. Fig. 7 is a view similar to Figs. 1 and3 but shows the second sewing machine at an angle.

Fig. 8 is a view similar to Fig. 3 but shows another form of standardtaping mechanism. Fig. 9 is a front view of the first sewing mechnism.Fig. 10 is a front viewof the taping mechanism. Fig. 11 is a front viewof the second sewing machine. Fig. 12 is a top plan view showing thevarious steps to which the present invention subjects the work. Fig. 13is a top plan view of the main guides and work manipulating mechanism.Figs. 14, 15, and 16 are fragmentary details showing the method ofguiding, stitching, and trimming two plies of material taken on linel4w-I4 in Fig. 12.

Fig. 17 is a detail of the plow for separating and spreading the seammargins, taken on line |1-I1 in Fig. l2. Fig. 18 is a fragmentary detailsimilar to Fig. 17 but shows the plow pressing the seam margins inspread condition, on line i8-I8 in Fig. 12. Fig; 19 disclosesfragmentary details for initially underturning one ply and guiding theseam margins, taken on line I9--I9 in Fig. 12. Fig. 20 disclosesfragmentary details of the work deep in the upper guide and with thelower ply nearly fully underturned, taken on line 20--20 in Fig. l2.Fig. 21 shows the plow pressing the seam margins onto the main plies andshows the upper guide directing the work by the seam margins. l

Fig. 22 is a fragmentary partially exploded view showing the tapesloosely applied to both sides of the seam and showing the rollers inspread relation thereto. Fig. 23 is a fragmentary and sectional view ofthe two rollers pressing the tapes onto both sides of the seam. Fig. 24is a fragmentary sectional view of the stitching mechanism of the secondsewing machine, taken on line 24-24. Fig. 25 is a sectional view of thestep-bystep driving mechanism for the taping machine. Fig. 26 is afragmentary end view of the driving mechanism shown in Fig. 25. Fig. 27is a fragmentary detail of the adjustment for the taping machine drivingmechanism.

Fig. 28 is a longitudinal sectional view of the secondary main drivecontrol. Fig. 29 is a transverse sectional view of the device shown inFig. 28, taken on line 29-29 thereof.

Figs. 30A-E illustrate various seams with folded seam margins made inaccordance with this invention. Figs. 31F-J are similar to Figs. 30A-Ebut illustrates other seams with unfolded seam margins. Figs. 32K-0illustrate seams made with overedge stitching and with abutting seammargins. Figs. 33 and 34 illustrate respectively a seam with folded seammargins and with unfolded seam margins, representative of over turnedmain plies and hidden seam margins.

Fig. 35 is an end view of the two sewing mechanisms angularly disposedand laterally offset relative to each other. Fig. 36 is a diagrammaticplan of the work guides shown in Fig. 35. Fig. 37 is a top view of thespreader guide showing the laterally offset and curved work guide forthe taping mechanism. Figs. 38 and 39 diagrammatically illustrate theautomatic stop.

Before explaining the present invention in detail it should beunderstood that the invention is not limited to the details ofconstruction and arrangement of parts which are illustrated in theaccompanying drawings, since the principles of the invention are capableof other embodiments, and that the phraseology employed is for thepurposeof description and not of limitation.

In its broader aspects the present invention comprises a frame 44 with atable 45 upon which there is suitably located and secured a rst sewingmechanism 46, a second sewing mechanism 41, and an intermediate tapingmechanism 48, operated coordinately by a driving mechanism 49. Thesesewing mechanisms and the taping mechanism may, for economy, be wellknown standard units, functioning through their regular operatinginstrumentalities, together with special instrumentalities provided bythe present invention, and due to their special arrangement and drivingrelationship, provide a novel method and a highly eicient structure forforming various types of seams. The first sewing mechanism 46 is thewell known Metropolitan sewing machine including a main frame 50 with alower arm 5| supporting a usual cloth plate 52 and rotatably supportinga main drive shaft 53 capable of operating a feed dog 54 and looper 55,and through an enclosed drive operating an upper shaft 56 in an upperarm 51 to reciprocate a needle bar 58 and needle 59 in cooperation withthe looper 55, while a presser foot 60 and presser bar 6| may be loweredtoward the cloth plate by a hand lever 62 in order to press work towardthe feed dog for effective feeding.

The second sewing mechanism 41 is a standard Metropolitan sewing machinesimilar to the first sewing mechanism 46 excepting that it is of adouble needle 59 and double looper 55 type to form multiple lines ofstitching 63; and a modified form of presser foot 64 with a channel 65is provided (and accommodates the plurality of needles). The supports,guides, and handling instrumentalities for the looper and needle threadsmay ne ci usual construction and are therefore not illustrated. Sincethese sewing mechanisms 46 and 41 are standard well known units,detailed description of their operating instrumentalities and mode ofoperation is deemed unnecessary.

The taping mechanism 48 shown in Figs. 1-5 particularly is also astandard unit, slightly modified for use with this invention, known tothe trade as the Prime seam pressing and taping mechanism, and exceptfor the tape supplies and the tape and work guiding means is in the formalso illustrated and described in the United States Patent No. 1,794,204to Ridderstrom. In general it comprises a fram-e 66 with an overhangingarm 61 supporting a main drive shaft 68 with a novel intermittentdriving pulley mechanism 69 at one end for imparting a step-by-steprotation to an upper roller 10 at the other end of the shaft, andincludes a cooperating lower roller 1I mounted for free rotation on astud 12 carried by a yoke 13. The yoke is secured to an offset shaft 14so that it may be swung from the operative position shown by full linesin Fig. l to the dot-anddash line 15 inoperative position. Normally itis urged by strong spring pressure into the operative position to pressand to feed work 16 between the upper and lower rollers. Any usual pedalconnection to the standard yoke control 11 (see Fig. l0) may be providedto move the yoke 13 and lower roller to the inoperative position.Similar usual pedal connections to the lever 18 and associated presserbars 6| may be provided to lift the presser feet 60 and 64 of the sewingmechanisms. The connections may be made integral so that the tapingmechanism and presser feet may be moved to inoperative positioncoordinately.

A trimming device 19 may be provided with the first sewing mechanism 46to trim the work 16 as it is being stitched. This trimming device may becarried by a slide 80 for reciprocation between rails 8| and 82 by alever connection 83 to the needle bar 58 within the upper arm 51. Thistrimming device is completely described and claimed in the J. P. Weisapplication Serial No. 640,933-1ed November 3, 1932, but may be of otherstandard and well known types `for sewing machines, preferablyadjustable laterally relative to the line of stitching. The trimmingdevice may be omitted entirely when the run of work does'not requiretrimming, or may be rendered inoperative by merely removing a screw 84and cutter 85 when'the work does not require trimming.

Work guides and controls Novel work guiding and controllinginstrumentalities vprovided by the present invention may best be seen inFigs. 1-5, and 12-24 of the type now preferred in making the forms ofseam shownv in Figs. 30A-E. To guide the Work 16, for example, a pair ofsuperposed main plies 86 between the first sewing mechanism 46 and thetaping mechanism 48 and to variously condition the work 16, there isprovided a usual adjustable guide 81 for locating the edges of the plieslaterally relative to a needle and to a line of stitching 88, and to thetrimming device 19 when the latter is used. A spreader guide 89 in theform of a horn with a yoke 90adapted to hook and pivot on the lowerroller stud 12 extends from the roller l 1| of the taping mechanism 48to a point adjacent the needle 59 where it is provided with a thin andnarrow nger 92 to lit between the two main plies, but which graduallytapers, becoming larger in cross section as it approaches the roller 1|.An adjustable stud 93 may be regulated to space the iinger 92 from thecloth plate 52 to permit free passage of the lower ply. A'spring 94between the varm and spreader guide keeps the latter in operativeposition on the stud 12 and regulating screw while the yoke is in theoperative position and allows the yoke to be moved to the inoperativeposition without dama-ge.

l An 'upper guide 95 is supported substantially centrally oi thespreader guide by an arm 96 supported on the main drive shaft 68. Thisupper guide may be pressed toward the spreader guide by its own weight,by a weight 91, by springs 98, or 99 or by a rod |00 adapted to urge thearm 96 and guide 95 in a clockwise direction. The guide may be moved toan inoperative position shown by dot-and-dash lines either throughlifting it by hand or by any usual foot pedal connection to the'rod |06.The guide is preferably made with two side walls |02 and |03 withflaring ends |04 and as they approach the first sewing mechanism,adapted to Imove the seam |06 of sewed plies centrally relative to thework support and to spaced and curving table ||2. 'I'he plate is adaptedto spread and support the main plies 86 in a horizontal plane at thetaping mechanism and in their travel to the second sewing mechanism 41with a U-shaped cut out ||3 adapted to clear and project in front of thelower roller 1| adjacent the spreader guide 89. It may be provided witha shallow channel ||4 to form a guide for a tape if a tape is applied tothe under side of the work atvthe taping mechanism. The upper guide |06includes a pair of side'plates ||5 and ||6 held in spaced relation by across strap ||1 and has a pair of apertures ||8 adapted to hook over theshaft 68 or to hook over a hub I9 of the upper roller 10 and "is urgedtoward the work supporting plate |01 by its own weight or by theaddition of an auxiliary weight |20.

Tape, supplies Novel tape supplies |2| with spools |22 of tape |23areprovided by the present invention which may be used equally well todirect an upper tape |23a and to apply a lower tape |231) and to furnishthe tape to either the taping mechanism 48 or to the second sewingmechanism 41 without changing the location of the tape supply spools|22. To assist in directing the I,tape to either of these stations, thepresent invention provides a tape guide |24 in the form of a U-shapedchannel |25 having a pivotal connection |26 with studs |21 and |28supporting the tape spools so that it may be located and held in thesolid line positions shown in Fig. 1 by plungers |29 entering vsuitableholes in an arm |30 and in the yoke 13 to direct the tapes to therollers oi the taping mechanism.

The same channel |25 may be rotated to .and held in the dot-and-dashline positions |3| and |32 by passing the same plungerinto holes |33 and|34 of a lug |35 and the yoke so that tape |23a may advantageously bedirected from the upper tape supply to the channel 65 in the presserticularly, a more uniform product results through their use.

Operation Operation of the instrumentalities just described, for theproductionof a product similar to that shown in Fig. 30A is accomplishedby passing the two superposed plies 86 over the cloth plate 52 of thefirst sewing mechanism 46 where the finger' 92 of the spreader guide 89fits between the two plies adjacent the needle 59 and where the guide 81aligns the edges thereof relative to the needle and to the trimmingdevice 19 when the latter is used. Then, as the machine of the presentinvention, including the rst and second sewing mechanisms 46 and 41 andthe taping mechanism 48 are operated in unison by the driving mechanism49, hereinafter described in detail, the feed dog 54 and presser foot-60moves the superposed plies relative to the needle to form the line ofstitching 88 joining the two plies and forming a main seam |06 with wideseam margins |31 (while the trimming device, if used, straightens outthe rough edges |38) all as shown in Figs.

l adjacent main plies as shown in Fig. 21.

12-16. Subsequently, a plow |39 initially spreads the seam margins asshown in Figs. 17 and 18.

Thence, as the work is fed to 'the rear of the first sewing mechanism 46into the free space (of any desiredrextent) between the cloth plate 52and the taping mechanism 48, the lower ply 86 is underturned by a taper|40 and partly by its own weight, so that a rather full separation ofthe two main plies occurs and at the same time the upper ply tends todrop around the spreader guide 89 so that the seam |06 is moved througha right angle and so that the seam margins |31 are mlovedv from a.hidden `side position to a fully exposed top position above the spreaderguide enabling the operator to thoroughly check the condition thereof.This is a very important advantage.

In this turning, the end wall |04 of the upper guide engages with theseam margins and gradually directs them into a main channel |4| viz.,from the position shown in Fig. 19 to the position shown in Fig. 20. Inthe ,further feeding of the stitched plies through the upper guide aplow |42 similar to the plow |39 spreads the seam margins from the rightangle position relative to the main plies shown in Fig. 20 down in thedirection of the arrows C of Fig. 20 onto the Next, the stitched pliespass between the upper and lower rollers 10 and 1| where an upper tape|23a is directed to the seam margins by the tape guide |24 and a lowertape |23b applied on the opposite side of the seam by the lower tapeguide. The upper roller 10 is provided with rubber flanges |44 adaptedto press the tape down over the seam margins onto the adjacent mainplies as may best be seen in Fig. 23 while the lower roller ispreferably provided with a shallow groove |46 adapted to locate andpress the bottom tape against the other side of the seam. After therollers engage the work, in addition to pressing the tapes thereon theyserve to pull the work through the guides 89 and 95 and from the firstsewing mechanism.

Although the upper adhesive tape |23a alone, through its connection withthe main plies 86, is sufficient to hold the seam margins |31 down ontothe main plies, in some forms of work it is preferable to stitch thesetogether and this is accomplished by passing the work rearwardly of thetaping mechanism 48 over the Work support |01 where the channel ||4 mayalign with the bottom tape and where the side Walls of the upper guide|08 direct the work by fitting over the seam margins similarly to therubber flanges of the upper roller as in Fig. 23 to the correct positionrelative to the needles 59 of the second sewing mechanism 41. Thechannel'65 of the presser foot 64 also cooperates in a similar manner toinsure proper alignment. As the work is fed through the second sewingmachine the needles 59' may form the multiple lines of stitching 63passing through the upper tape, seam margins, main plies, and lower tapeas shown by solid line needles in Figs. 24 and 30A, or may be passedthrough these parts less the seam margins as shown by dot-and-dash lineneedles in the same figures. Thereafter the Work is fed rearwardly ofthe second sewing mechanism onto the floor or into a suitable container.

The seam illustrated in Fig. 30B is similarly formed merely by omittingthe lower tape |2311 and preferably having the lower roller 1| plainfaced. Again the secondary stitching |46 is not required because thetape is pressed over the folded margins down onto main plies 86, butmay, if preferred, be provided through the tape, seam margins, and mainplies or into the tape and main plies alone. The seam of Fig. 30C isformed in like manner by merely providing a plain faced lower roll, aspool |22 of narrower tape |23 and a proportionately narrower tape guide|24 properly located on the stud |21. 'I'he seam of Fig. 30D may beformed by moving the spool of narrower tape and the narrower tape guideonto the lower stud |28, and omitting the upper tape |23a in which eventthe lower roll with a groove may be again provided. Also, the seam ofFig. 30E is formed by merely combining the arrangements for seams inFigs. 30C and 30D just described in detail.

All of the seams in Figs. 30A through E may be formed with adhesive tapeor tapes alone (less stitching) if preferred, by eliminating the secondstitching mechanism 41 and allowing the work to feed off the lower roll1|, with a drive belt |41 as shown-in Fig. 4, or by removing the needles59' of the second sewing mechanism. In some work it is preferable tohave both tapes plain and stitched or one plain and stitched and oneadhesive tape. The taped seam, less the stitching, is sometimespreferable, as for ladies shoes and in waterproof articles. The tape 23may be provided with an adhesive coating of any type and may even have asoft rubber facing which will heat or flow sufficiently under pressureof the rollers 10 and 1| to adhere to mating parts of the work. In theformation of al1 the seams illustrated both with and Without stitchingin Figs. 30A-E, no changes need be made in the upper roll 10, upperguides 95 and |08, lower spreader guide 89 or to the support plate |01,nor need the lower roller 1| be changed if a plain faced roller is usedthroughout.

It should also be noted that the apparatus so far described can, bymerely omitting the tapes I 23. be used without change to turn the workrelative to the first sewing mechanism 46 with the seam. margins |31advantageously moved upwardly and exposed to sight, to fold and pressthe seam margins onto the main plies 86 and to sew the margins onto themain plies. (Like Fig. 30C, less the tape.) If a nonadhesive tape issecured to the work by stitching |46, as illustrated in Figs. 30Athrough E, it may be supported in the tape supplies |2| and passed tothe rollers 10 and 1| as already described, or may be located in thedot-and-dash line positions |3| and |32 to pass tape downwardly to thechannel 65 in the presser foot 64 and upwardly through the aperture ||1'to the channel ||4, either or both tapes as used being drawn from thesupplies by the regular feeding action of the feed dog 54, and presserfoot; these instrumentalities, however, not being powerful enough orsatisfactory to press an adhesive tape securely in place.

Those forms of seam shown in Figs. 31H, I, and J are somewhat similar tothe seams a1- ready described, but have narrower seam margins |48 asshown in Fig. 31F, which are not folded back onto the main plies 86 asshown in Fig. 31G, formed by suitable adjustment of the gauge 81 (and ofthe trimming device 19, if used). The work supports, guides, and rollersare the same in principle as those described for seams in Figs. 30Athrough E, differing mainly in size only, viz., the first spreader |39is eliminated, the spreader guide 89 is the same, the upper guide 95remains the narrow width of Fig. 20 through its length (rather thanbroadening to accommodate folded down seam margins as shown in Fig. 2l)and the plow |42 serves only to press down the edges |49 of the marginsrather than to overturn them (the latter being pressed nearly flat, butwhich are left high herein to facilitate illustration). Similarly theflat center section |50 of the upper roller 10 is made narrower and therubber flanges' |44 made wider to conform With the contours of the seam3|H, I, and J.

The upper guide 95 is likewise made narrower. All of these are slightchanges in proportions and detailed illustrations, and descriptions seemunnecessary.

In forming the seams of Figs. 31H, I, and J the tape |23 (which may beplain or adhesive) may be applied to one or both sides of the workbefore or after the taping mechanism 48, either adhesively or byAstitching alone, or by both, all substantially as hereinbeforedescribed for the seams shown in Figs. 30A-E.

'Ihe seams shown in Figs. 32M-O, with nonadhesive tapes |23 stitched andwith adhesive tapes |23 stitched vand not stitched, are similarlyproduced by using a standard sewing machine of the overedge stitchingtype to form the line of stitching |5| ishown in Fig. 32K, in the wellknown manner, and subsequently using substantially all the mechanism andapparatus used in forming the seams shown in Figs. 31H, I, and J andjust described in detail, differing only in the provision of plain facedrollers, or use of shallow groove rollers 1| on the sides where tape |23is applied.

Also, the plow |42 is set lower in the upper guide 95 to flatten out theseam as shown in Fig. 32L just prior to its entering the rollers 10 and1|. The stitching initially holds the edges of the plies together tocentralize the seam in upper guide 95. 'Ihe angle |40 on the spreaderguide 89 and the lateral location and lengthwise spacing of the tapingmechanism 48 relative to the rst sewing mechanism 46 is such that anideal underturning of the `lower ply and arcuate movement of the seamsshown in Figs. 30, 31, and 32 upwardly to' fully exposed view isuniformly and effectively accomplished.

If preferred the intermediate taping mechanism 48 may, to save the costof this complete machine, be' eliminated by providing a simple block inplace of the frame 66 with studs 68 and 12 and13 to support the guides89, 95, and |08,- and studs |21 and |28 to support the tape supplies |24similarly to the showing of Fig. l-for example, when it is desired tosew plain tapes to two sides of the seam.

Also, if preferred, a stamper type seam pressing and tape applyingmachinev of the well known Boston type disclosed in the United StatesPatent No. 1,691,493 to Osgood may be used in place of the Prime doubleroller machine already described. Such an arrangement is shown in Fig.8, in which the usual main stamper and feeder element |52 is driven inproper ratio with the feed of the iirst and second sewing mechanism. Thespreader guide 89 is merely proportioned to hook upon the shaft ofroller 1|', the work supporting plate |01 may be the same, and the upperguides 95 and |08. An upper tape |23A may be directed to -the stamperwith the regular guides of this Bostontmachina An extra tape |23B may bedirected up to the-underside of the work by being passed upwardly fromany suitable supply to roller |54 in the spreader guide 88. 'Ihe stampermay, throughwires lll,

be heated in the usual manner to heat the seam |06 or the adhesive ofthe tapes.

For long straight run seams as illustrated in Fig. 12 the sewingmechanisms 46 and 41 and the taping mechanism 40 are preferablyhorizontally and laterally in line as shown in Figs. 1, 3, 4, 5, and 13,but for curved seams as illustrated in Figs. 36 and 37 the sewingmechanisms 46 and 41 are preferably on planes at an angle to one anotherand out of line laterally as shown in Figs. 7, 35, 36, and 37. To mostclearly show this feature, and to illustrate the adhesive tape applyingfeature in unitary practical combination with a seam sewing machinewherein the seam margins are on the underside, the apparatus, as shownin Fig. 7, is provided with an upper spreader guide |56 adapted tooverturn the upper ply while first the lower and then both plies restupon the plate guide |01 which in this form is long and fiat enough tobe adjacent the cloth plate 52 of the first sewing mechanism.

Fig. 37 shows the laterally offset relation of the taping mechanism 48relative to the needle 59 when the lower ply is to be underturn'ed, theguide 92 insuring travel of the seam relative to the predetermined curve|40' and special guide 81 on a modified spreader guide 89. Figs. 35 and36 disclose the curving offset and angular relationship of the first andsecond sewing mechanisms clearly with an upper overturning guide |56 anda lower work support |51 with a `channel |58 to receive the seam marginsand a iin |59 on the presser foot to centralize the seam relative to theneedles 59. Also, Fig. 35 sfhows an automatic control |60 adapted tostop operation of the electric motor and thereby the main driving meansupon exhaust of the tape supply |2|, which in Figs. 38 and 39 is shownwith the tape guides |24 of the main form of the invention.

Drive and control Driving and controlling of the various mechanisms isaccomplished in a novel manner. 'I'he main drive is best seen in Figs.3-6, 9-11, 25-29 and comprises the motor |6|, energized through mainwiring |62 and switch |63 to rotate a flywheel |64 with a motor shaft. Abracket |65 encloses the flywheel, and` on a stud |66 fixedly supports asecondary bracket |61 and a spring pressed collar |68 which supports andnormally urges a driver plate |69 into braking engagement with thesecondary bracket. By stepping on a treadle |10, a connection |1| causesa lever |12 to move the collar |68 and driver plate |69 into `frictional engagement with the flywheel to rotate interconnected pulleys|13 and '|14 by al spline connection of the driver plate and screwconnection of the pulley |13 to a shaft |15. Slower than motor speed forthe pulleys can be had by slipping the driver plate on the flywheel. Thepulley |13 through belt |16 and driver pulley |11 operates the firstsewing mechanism, and coordinately'the pulley |14 through belt |18 andcombined handwheel and pulley |19 and pulley |80 operates the tapingmechanism 48 and second sewing mechanism 49. Chains and sprockets may beused in place of belts and pulleys.

`Interruption of drive between the sewing mechanisms 46 and 41 and thetaping mechanism 48 is desirable at times in order to compensate for'slippage, slight irregularities in the feed, and stretching of the work,for example to have the taping mechanism and sewing mechanism 41continue operating while the first sewing mecha..

nism temporarily stops. Two mechanisms |8| and |82 are provided by thepresent invention for this purpose. The first |8| is for foot operation,including a friction clutch |83 between thepulleys |13 and |14controlled by a pedal |04 and chain |85 moving a bell crank |86 which,through a'connection |81, breaks the clutch |83 and moves the pulley |14free of the driver pulley I13. A spring |86 moves the free pulley andclutch into driving engagement again upon release of the pedal. slippagerather than complete disconnection is possible.

The secondary or hand interrupter |02 is pro vided in the clutch pulley|11 on the first sewing nechanism as shown in detail in Figs. 28 and 2main drive shaft 53 with a screw |89 to support the pulley |11 for freerotation. A handwheel |90 with a friction plate |9| is, through anattached stud |92, threaded into the collar |88. By giving the handwheela slight clockwise turn the free pulley is locked between the frictionplate and a ange |93 on the collar so that the belt |16 operates thefirst sewing mechanism. When the handwheel is grasped during rotationthe'reof the screw moves the friction plate from the pulley to interruptthe driving action. A key |94 on the friction plate riding in a notch|95 of the collar limits releasing travel of the handwheel. Screws |96therein break this latter connection for initial assembly and for laterrepairs. Thus, the operator can interrupt the drive between the variousmain mechanisms very simply and efficiently either by foot or by handoperation. This is an advantage when the work is shoe uppers 16', theindividual sets of which are joined by a line of stitching 88, which isthe type of Work to which the various forms of the present invention areused.

A novel drive |91 is also provided for the taping mechanism 48 as shownin detail in Fig. 25. Normally, standard taping machines have a directplain pulley drive which would be quite mpractical in a combinationmachine of the present type, especially since it is desirable to changethe feed on stitches per inch according to the articles being produced.To adjust the feed of the taping mechanism without changing the pulleyand to impart a positive step-by-step movement to the rollercoordinately with the sewing feed, the present invention provides acombined pulley and handwheel |98 with a collar |99 and eccentric 200secured thereto for rotation on a stud 20| in the frame 66.

The eccentric 200 reciprocates a line 202 connected to an arm portion203 of a cup 204 of a one way clutch 205-inc1uding a hub member 206carrying spring pressed rollers 201 and having an attached or integralgear 208 all supported for rotation on a stud 209. A similar clutch 2 |0having a stationary hub member 2| with rolle'rs 2|2 associated with acup 2| 3 and gear 2| 4 secured to the main drive shaft 68 of the upperroller 10. Thus, when the link 202 moves to the right as viewed in Fig.26 the clutch 205 rotates thegears 208 and 2|4 and the roll 10 in thedirection of the arrows D and E and impart a small step-by-step rotarymovement to the shaft 12 andA roller 10. As the link moves in the otherdirection, the clutch 2|0 prevents return movement of gear 2|4 and therollers 201 of clutch 205 are ineffective. Adjustment is easilyaccomplished to vary the extent of stepby-step movement by passing ascrew driver through a hole 2| 5 in the pulley 98 to loosen,

It comprises a collar |88 secured to the' slide, and lock a connection2|6 at any desired point in a slot 2|1 of the arm.

'I'he machine of the present invention is also arranged to stopautomatically upon exhaust of the tape supply, through the provision ofa switch |60 (see Figs. 35, 38, and 39) with two members 2|9 and 220between which the tape passes. While tape is there the switch is closedthrough contacts 22| and 2.22, but if the tape breaks or the spoolexhausts, a member 223 drops to open the circuit |62 as shown in Fig. 39whereupon the motor automatically ceases to operate until the tape isreplenished. Figs. 38 and 39 show this principle applied to the setup ofFig. 3. It may be variously used, and has the advantage of preventingloss of work which would otherwise occur since it is not practical torun partially finished work back through the machine.

Steps in the method of the present invention for the formation of seamsshown in Figs. 30A through E consists of stitching superposed plies toform a seam with seam margins (trimming the margins, if preferred),spreading the main plies, folding the seam margins, pressing an adhesivetape on one or both sides of the seam, all in a single handling of thework. The same seams may also be formed by the same series of steps butin addition in a succeeding step the tape or tapes, with or without theseam margins, stitched to the main plies, all in the single handling ofthe work. Heretofore separate detached machines and operations wererequired for anything approaching this and a less uniform and much morecostly product resulted.

Steps in the method of forming the seams shown in Figs. 31H, I, and J'consist'of stitching superposed plies with a narrow seam margin,spreading the main plies and applying an adhesive tape on one or bothsides of the seam, (and optionally the step of stitching the tapes tothe plies) al1 in a single handling.

Steps in the formation of the seams illustrated in Figs. 30A through Ewith a stitched not adhesive tape consists of stitching superposed pliesto form a seam with seam margins, (the step of trimming if desired), ofunderturning one of the main plies and fully exposing and pressing outthe seam margins, of applying a tape to one or both sides of the seam,and of securing the tape with or without the seam margins to the mainplies.

Similar steps are taken in the method of forming the seams in Figs. 32Mthrough O as in forming seams in Figs. 31H through J as just described.Steps in the formation of the seam shown in Fig. 33 consists ofstitching superposed plies to form a seam with wide seam margins,-

overturning one main ply, spreading the seam margins, and applying anadhesive tape on one or both sides of the seam (with or Without theadditional step of stitching the tape or tapes to the main plies with orWithout also stitching the seam margins to the main plies) all in asingle handling. The seam of Fig. 34 is produced with the same methodjust described for the seam of Fig. 33 except that the step of foldingseam margins is omitted.

The terms and illustrations used herein are intended to assist in lanunderstanding of the invention and not to limit it, for variations andmodifications may be made within the scope of the invention and portionsmay be used without others.

Having thus described the present invention,

what is claimed as new and for which itis desired to obtain LettersPatent, is:

1. In one machine for sewing and taping a seam in a single handling thecombination of a rst sewing mechanism for stitching two superposed pliesto form a rst seam with seam margins; means for spreading and turningthe lower ply to substantially the plane of the upper ply, and formoving said seam margins above the main plies; means for guiding a pairof tapes to the top and bottom of the rst seam; a second sewingmechanism for sewing the pair of tapes to the plies; channel means foraccurately guiding the stitched plies from the rst to the second sewingmechanism; and driving mechanism for operating said rst and secondmechanisms in timed relation.

2. In one machine for sewing and taping a seam in a single handling thecombination of a rst sewing mechanism for stitching two superposed mainplies to form a seamwith seam margins; means for spreading and turningthe lower ply to substantially 'the plane of the upper ply4 and formoving the seam margins above the main plies; means for' spreading theseam margins; a taping mechanism adapted to apply a tape down onto saidspread seam margins; sewing mechanism adapted to stitch the tape to thespread seam margins and to the main plies; and driving mechanism foroperating said rst and second sewing mechanisms in timed relation.

3. In one machine for sewing and taping a seam in a single handlingthecombination of aV rst sewing mechanism for stitching superposed mainplies to form a seam with seam margins; means for spreading and turningthe lower ply to substantially the plane of the upper ply, and formoving the seam margins above the main plies; a taping mechanism adaptedto press tapes over said previously sewed seam at opposite sides of theopened plies; a second sewing mechanism adapted to stitch at least oneof said tapes to said main plies; means including members above the mainplies engaging the seam margins for guiding the stitched and taped pliesfrom the taping mechanism to the second sewing mechanism; and drivingmechanism for operating said rst and second sewing mechanisms and thetaping mechanism in timed relation.

4. In one machine for sewing and taping a seam in a single handling thecombination of a rst sewing mechanism for stitching superposed mainplies of material to form a seam with seam margins; means for spreadingand turning the lower ply to substantially the plane of the upper ply,and for moving the seam margins above the main plies; means adapted toapply atape over said seam margins and to stitch said tape to the mainplies; and driving mechanism for operating said rst sewing mechanism andsaid last named means in timed relation.

5. In one machine for sewing and taping a seam the combination of afirst sewing mechanism for stitching superposed main plies of materialto form a seam with seam margins; means including a large generallysemicircular member tting between the main plies and a channel memberabove the semicircular member engaging the seam margins, for spreadingand turningthe lower ply to substantially the plane of upper ply and formoving the seam margins above the main plies; taping means adapted toapply tapes over said previously sewed seam and the seam margins, atopposite sides of the spread main plies; a second sewing mechanism forstitching said tapes to the main plies; and driving mechanism foroperating said first and second sewing mechanisms and the tapingmechanism in timed relation.

6. In one machine for sewing and taping a seam in a single handling thecombination of a rst sewing mechanism for stitching superposed plies toform a seam with seam margins; means including a large generallysemicircular member tting between the main plies and a channel memberabove the semicircular member engaging the seam margins for spreadingand turning the lower ply to substantially the plane of the upper plyand for moving the seam margins above the main plies; means adapted toapply a tape over the seam margins and to stitch said tape to the mainplies; and driving mechanism for operating said first sewing mechanismand said last named means in timed relation.

JCBN P. WEIS.

